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Understanding watch timegrapher results
Understanding watch timegrapher results






This is usually automatically detected by default setting, but if the detection is wrong, it can be manually set. 21,600bph, or beat per hour, would translate to 6 ticks per second). The 5-digit number is the beat frequency, meaning how many ticks are there within a second. This figure should alternate between two numbers: one 5-digit number, and one number in degrees. An exceedingly high beat error, on the other hand, can cause a problem called “rebanking” or even stop a movement. it does not start running by itself when wound from a unwound state, and requires you to swing the watch to start running. A high beat error prevents the watch from self starting i.e. This does not affect the accuracy of the watch unless in extreme cases, but in the long run, beat error can cause uneven wear. Normally they should be of equal length, but if the balance wheel swings more in one direction and less in the other, one tick will be longer than one tock. This figure is a bit abstract to understand, but simply put, it’s the time difference between the “tick" and the “tock”. But anything above 250 degrees can still be considered healthy amplitude.įor your reference, a Sellita SW200 has a factory rated maximum amplitude of 315 degrees and minimum amplitude of 210 degrees, and general consensus for the maximum amplitude of a Japanese movement (like Miyota and Seiko) is in the range of 270-315 degrees, while an amplitude above 230 is considered acceptable. A low amplitude generally indicates problems that needs to be fixed prior to regulation, like obstruction due to foreign elements, oil drying up, etc.

UNDERSTANDING WATCH TIMEGRAPHER RESULTS FULL

A healthy movement should, at full wound, have a high amplitude, in the range of 280-320. This tells you how much rotation is in one full swing of the balance wheel, and is an important piece of information in determining the health of the movement. So, if it says +3s/d, that means the watch gains 3 second per day. Labelled in s/d, it tells you the time error in seconds per day. This is the number most people are looking for. Each number tells you an important piece of information about the condition of the watch tested: When the timegrapher is running, it’ll show 4 numbers on screen. So a functional timegrapher gives you many useful pieces of information that you can use to determine the condition of the movement. Through the built-in microphone, it picks up the ticks and tocks of the watch and calculates indicators of the general health of the movement. But the proper way to diagnose and regulate a watch is by using a timegrapher.Ī timegrapher is a device that tells you more than just the accuracy of a watch. On the internet you can find multiple ways to regulate a watch some even say you can do it with just an app. If they are moved, the accuracy of the movement can be affected, and in most cases, regulation can be of help here. Some of these parts, like the levers we are going to talk about, are especially susceptible to external force as they are movable. Therefore it is imperative to maintain clean working environment, and always wear finger cots.Ī mechanical movement functions quite literally by the movement of its mechanical parts. Any foreign elements caught in the gear train of the movement can slow down or even stop the movement. This could be small debris, tiny strands of fiber, or even hair. “Hygiene” in this particular context means “the absence of foreign elements inside the watch”. Luckily, demagnetizing a watch is a relatively simple process. You can tell a watch has probably been magnetized if it runs exceedingly quick, and in some rarer cases, slow. A mechanical watch could be magnetized if placed near an electronic product, say your iPhone, for a significant amount of time, or simply when it is exposed to magnetic influence. With the pervasiveness of electronic products nowadays, magnetism is the no.1 cause for inaccuracy. Before regulation: common cause of inaccuracy So proceed with extreme care and caution. One slip up could mean the death of your watch. Note of caution: with regulation, you are accessing and manipulating the inside of the movement. Adjustment is much more complicated than regulation, and should not be attempted by non-professionals. in different positions, like dial up vs dial down). Note that the important distinction is consistency, and that distances “regulation” from “adjustment”, which refers to the work done to a watch when it runs with different rate under different conditions (e.g. Regulation, in the sense used by watchmakers, means the work done to a watch when it runs consistently faster or slower. First off, let’s clarify what “regulation” means.






Understanding watch timegrapher results